Monday, November 27, 2006

Hidden Jewel

There must be a craze about local produce, lately. I remember the days when I picked up a can of processed Maltese tomatoes from a supermarket shelf and I hear my dear one cry out:"NO, don't buy the Maltese one, they are crap! Take the foreign one." Hearing that the first couple of times was by far the most confusing thing. Isn't it more logical to buy local products since it's a garantee that is by far more fresh than if it's imported from some foreign country and transported in trucks, planes and coolhouses? But after a while of "brainwashing" you start to believe that yourself and pick up the "Mueller Yoghurt" instead of the "Benna" one. With Malta's joining the European Union and with the changes and progresses that the country has been making in the past few years, things and attitudes have definately changed. Maltese products are really compatible in pricing and quality. Nowadays, I ONLY try to buy local and ONLY pick up some foreign stuff, if I really need to. Just look at the tomatoes. There are the BEST in the world. They might not be the most prettiest looking (although personally, I really fancy their looks) but you can taste that these tomatoes have been nurtured by Mediterrenean Sun. Foreign "glasshouse" tomatoes are really tasteless and watery compared to the deep red and plum Maltese ones.

Last Sunday, we made a trip down to Burmarrad to see a small exhibition of local produce. For a while now, I have been noticing a "going back to the roots" mentality. Apart from wine, local olive oil making has becoming a new trend in Malta. This was reflected at the market, every item presented was homemade and shown off with pride. There was basically everything your heart desires from sun dried tomatoes, honey, delicious Maltese hobza (bread), olive oil and handmade pottery.
A bottle of 1 liter Maltese olive oil (from hundreds of year old trees from Wardija) costs LM 7 (Euro 16). It is not cheap but quality has its price.
You taste it on bread before it will be filled and bottled up right in front of your eyes.
My tastebuds got all teased and I was looking forward to lunch. We had outsourced a very special place, far off from the Maltese Sunday's traffic (I never seen so much traffic on a Sunday as here in Malta). I loved the trip over cliffs and green land, and all the others could hear from me, was: "Wow, how beautiful, oh how nice!" I really enjoy driving around Malta's countryside. It's like taking a fresh breath of air. I could have gone on like this forever but nothing is really far off here, even if it's hidden behind rolling hills of farmland near Mtahleb. My friends told me that we were going to a place that is called Rogantino's but is been referred to as the red castle. After a couple of wrong turns, a red painted farm house peaked off from behind the small village of Landrijiet (near Rabat, Mtfara). I think it's the last building and behind it is just farmland and beautiful countryside. It looks like out of a story book and I recommend to come at daytime to see it. Not only because you will have a better view but also because it is basically impossible to find it after dark, if you are not blessed by some supernatural navigation.

The place is magical. It has a lovely flower garden with pool and until September you can dine outside. The buidling has the typical Maltese farmhouse structure, with little passageways and stairs that lead to hidden roofs and entrances.
As we arrived, we were greeted by the owner. He knocked on the small wooden door in the courtyard and someone opened to let us in, as if we are visitors to someones private home.
From first impressions, the trip alone has been already worth to see the place. Everything has been kept with its original features: high vaulted stone ceilings, simple but traditional rustic farmhouse decoration.

The main room to the right can be booked for groups. For greater events their spciality is to roast a whole pig.
The view from the windows is beautiful and they also give lovely light. We were seated in the blue room (meaning white/ blue china on the wall and rustic tableclothes). The other rooms' theme is green.
The menu is not long and a bit pricy but everyone will be pleased to find something to their likings. All food is "home made style" meaning it tastes as if you go to Mama for Sunday lunch. The soup, in fact, made me a bit homesick since it reminded me of a good german soup cooked by my sweet grandma.
This is also another place that emphasis on meat dishes (pork, beef, duck). So if you are vegetarian call them up before and they will fix something special off the menu.
The lunch was very delightful, from food to the beaujolais and the company, you feel at home. The place has nostalgic atmosphere around it, making you also feel curious to discover all the other rooms of the house but good manners somehow holded me back.

The red castle (palace) is another example how mouth-to-mouth propaganda works in Malta. I do not think the owners do any kind of advertisement, nevertheless they have a strong clientile and are completly booked for the season. The reaturant is definately not easy to find and you should give Tony and Annette Grech a ring so they can explain the way to you.
I am sure you will have a great time, especially if you book the main hall for a baquette. And when you go, let them know how you had heard of them!

Rogantino's
Il-Palazz l-Ahmar
Wied il-Busbies (oh, how sweet!)
Landijiet
Tel: 21 452003
Mobile: 7904 6082


3 comments:

Unknown said...

Sounds great I will look them up in the summer.f

George Cassar said...

Seems I am following Steve around Jess' blog. Steve you do have to go. And like Jess said, at night forget finding the place unless you have someone who has been a few times before.

Been to Rogantino's a cpl of times and twice I didn't leave disappointed. Once had the suckling pig. Divine! Pork cooked to perfection, melts in your mouth. You def have to organize a group of friends.

Sadly not a place I will be visiting any time soon but retain good memories of the place.

Unknown said...

Is it in Triq Torri L-Ahmar? I tried to look for it on googlemap and have not had much luck.