Wine Bars, Part 2

Hi everybody, hope you had an awesome weekend! Our little team has been around again looking for some of the best wine bars in Malta. Yeah and we have great news, this week is going to be a tough choice: Which ONE is winning our title MALTA'S BEST WINE BAR?

We start off with:

Kafe Ta' Marku
Sqaq nru. 6, Triq Santa Lucija, Naxxar

Hidden in a small Alley lies the newly restored farmhouse Kafe' Ta' Marku. We were out on a relaxed Sunday evening and we heard that this place just opened for public and serves good wine. Old farmhouses always makes my heart beat jump higher. I have this nack about traditional Maltese places but sadly they are becoming less and less because of the construction that is going on in Malta. So it's good news to know that the owners made a beautiful job in converting this house to its original splendour. It is cozy and you should have a look through the several rooms that have been furbished to give the impression of a farmhouse inhabited by real people. In the evenings the building is dipped in lovely lights but you should definatley visit it on a Sunday afternoon. While the food and wine was good, I'd only recommend it if you like to nibble on something small (like a shared platter), but I'd definately recommend it for one of the best cakes I have ever eaten, THE Snickers Cake (like a Snickers bar). Wow, this one was rich but soooo good, Ruth and I devoured it! The lemon cheese cake is also highly recommended, by the way!

Every room has a small detail, here it is the fireplace.

Kafe' Ta' Marku scorred high for the ambience and the personal story that goes behind the restoration of this building. Whenever you make it to the charming town of Naxxar stop by at Ta' Marku to enjoy a cup of coffee and a cake. Saying that, it's not one of the top places for wine in Malta but definatley the place to try out THAT great Cake! Enjoy!

So now, we come to real stuff:

TRABAXU WINE BAR
No 1d, Strait Street, Valletta

With most of the wine bars in Malta, you'd better ask your way because this little jewel is no exception to the rule: It is well hidden in a quiet side street and if you don't know the place you'll have difficulty finding it. While most people visit Valletta only in the morning to go shopping or to have a look at those grand buildings, Valletta's night life is quiet. Normally, the capital city buzzes with action in the morning. I think there are thousands of shoppers, tourists, business (wo)men swarming the capital city but in the evening the Old Lady is silent. Recently there have been attempts to revitalize Valletta's cultural night life with events such as NOTTE BIANCA where not only shops, but also Valletta's famous churches and palaces stay open to the public until the early hours of the next morning. There is a new hype about Valletta and the nights are slowly becoming alive again. Anyway, the real reason behind it all is a little well-hidden wine bar called TRABAXU. I've heard people talking about it. First people from Valletta, then people from other towns and then people from the other island, Gozo. Wow, that wine bar has made a name for itself already and I, after visiting it, can only join in the praise for this place!

I had to love it: there are interesting black & white portraits gracing the stone walls. Trabaxu oozes authenticity, through and through!

Ok, here a bit of fusion of Maltese and Indian cuisine. Chicken with ginger, suberp!

I am all for mixed platters and cheese platters, I call them my authentic Maltese food. Everything is fresh and top quality and Trabaxu is one of the rare places that serves REAL (famous) Maltese bread, which is still fresh, no matter what time!

Everything comes together here: great atmosphere, cozyness, authenticity, great wine & food, excellent service. Thank you Chris and Krista for a very special evening! Way to go!

And the last one for today:

DELborgo
36, St. John Tower Street, Birgu

I fell in love with DELborgo the first time I visited it. For one, it's situated in Birgu (one of the famous Three Cities) and I love Birgu. For two, it has style: a fusion of the traditional Maltese with modern elements. For three, the wine tastes so much better here and the platters are great.

Here the view from the entrance

A Greek platter, very delicious but not Maltese.
Here, everything has style and class and wait until you have seen the restrooms...
I can only tell everyone to book a table at DELborgo, especially weekends because it's always full of people. DELborgo is definately on the very top of the best wine bars is Malta and it is already a winner because of its location. I can only repeat myself: YOU have to GO there!

Ahhhhhh and now.... what everybody was waiting for, the winner of the evening! It is really a tough choice because all the places we visited had something special about them. But when I'm looking for THE place to go it has to fullfill a long list of criterias: ATMOSPHERE, LOCATION, FOOD & WINE, SERVICE, AUTHENTICITY. Two places were really competing for the title and it's not easy... but....

..... the WINNER is TRABAXU!!!

One thing that it all brought down: the service is one to none. At Trabaxu they know what they are doing and they do it with passion. Their attention to detail in wine & food as well as to decor is even topped by their outstanding customer service and I can only rave about them. So this is my new favourite place to be... and I hope it's going to be yours too!

Enjoy everyone and keep looking out for new reviews!

Wine Bars, Part 1

The last few weekends, we have been going around Malta and Gozo to check out the best places to enjoy good wine and food. Like I already mentioned in my first post, wine is BIG here. More and more people actually cultivate their own grapes for winemaking. And last year I had a fair share of wine pressing and botteling mself. I have to admit though, that my knowledge about wine is rather superficial and I thouroughly rely on the judgement of our personal wine connoisseur (aka very good friend who knows what he's talking about). So lucky us, we had some great weekends out and enjoyed every minute. Here is a review of the places you definately have to go to. Wait for the second part, which features THE top of Maltese wine bars.

Delicata Classical Wine Festival - Gozo

Ok, this is not a bar, but this is definately an event not to be missed. First of all, this takes place at Nadur which is a beautiful village on Gozo's hilltops overlooking the harbor, the church and village of Mgarr (and at daytime you will also see the blue lagoon from there). Lots of Maltese will stay for a weekend in Gozo to relax and this event is the perfect opportunity to go.

You buy a glass for LM 2.75 (approx. EURO 7.50) and you can go around the stalls and taste all the wines on offer by Delicata.
Here with Ruth and Mark, our wine specialist. Below: Marco and Ruth

Big stars! Ira Losco is Malta's number one export star. She's not only HUGE here but was in the top 10 of the European charts. I remember once driving around with the car in Berlin and hearing the radio announcer saying: "And now the new song by Ira Losco." Wow, was I surprised. I think part of her breakthrough came also with the Eurovision song contest in which she placed 2nd.

The Delicata wine festival is special for the atmosphere (if you like busy crowds) and for the wine! Check it out next year!

Veccja Wine Bar & Restaurant

I love this place since it is right on the edge above the sea in a small fishermen's harbor, Xemxjia Bay. Here you come for beautiful summer evening and if you are lucky you will find seating on the little terrace. The wine bar is separated from the restaurant and you will have to go down the stairs and enter the bar form the blue side door. If you like jazz, you have to come Thursdays, where there will be a live band performing.

Veccja bar is rather small but really cozy with subdued light, jazzie music, small tables and a corner with pillows on the floor. The best part is the small terrace (notice the word "small" here?). There is actually a tree growing right through. Probably the bar was build around the tree, but the tree has become quite massive. I love it!
This is the view over Xemxija Bay. After a visit to Veccja have a stroll around the promenade and the harbor.
Veccja Bar & Restaurant by night. If you prefer fresh air and you only like to enjoy a small drink you can stay at the tables outside. On a Saturday in summer, there will be many people standing and sitting on the stairs and chatting.
Very worth visiting, a piece of Maltese culture. A place for enjoying a good wine with friends, for food either visit the restaurant or just have something small to "nibble"!

Seaside Breeze

Hello everyone, I just wanted to share some pictures that I took last week when we headed to Golden Sands after the big storm. The light was incredible! I wish I had my Nikon D200 with me but I only grabbed my fuji digital point & shoot since it is so nice and handy and you can practically take it anywhere with you. I pumped up a bit the contrast and color but in reality IT really was an awesome scene. Yeah, it would have made a perfect backdrop for a photoshoot. *sigh*

And a rare one of me since I don't like to give the camera out of my hands... but I know my family likes to see me from time to time too!

Impressions of Xlendi Bay

This is for all the ones out there that love Xlendi Bay, Gozo... and of course for the ones that still have to fall in love with it.
Xlendi (pronouced Shlendi) holds a special place in my heart. 20 years ago, it was the first time I came to Gozo and we stayed at this little sea side resort. No matter how many times I've come here though, it still keeps amazing me: the gorgeous bay with sparkling azure water sourrounded by high cliffs, is really an amazing sight.
On my last visit, I strolled around Xlendi and managed to snap some images. Here they are:


Paralell to the promenade is a small trail that follows close by the sea. There are benches everywhere to stop and enjoy the amazing view.

Yeah, you don't have to eat everyday at the hotel's restaurant. Instead you can have your breakfast on one of these neat picnick tables.

The main view of the promenade and St. Patricks Hotel.

You just have to love the old stone buildings. They ooze so much atmosphere. In the morning and late afternoon you can actually witness how two old ladies practice their tradition of maltese lace making. When you visit, have a look right by that white door.



At the front you'll find many small restaurant and bars.


Some typical Maltese fishing boats which most of the time will take tourists around the bay.


Lots of activity by the sea


Another view of the stunning cliffs. Actually, I took this image because I saw a person standing on one of them and I was wondering how he got up there.

I Love My Sandels

Yep, it's the time of the year that makes me a bit melancholic. Although outside it is still nice and warm, my mind is already programmed into autumn mood. There is no escaping from it: summer is slowly winding down. So, I thought it's the best time to pay my sandals a small tribute. Does that sound crazy to you? Well then, let me explain. These pair of cute string sandals did a great job throughout this spring and summer. In fact, they rescued me! I had already shipped all my summer shoes to Malta and once the unexpected heat wave rolled over Germany, my poor feet had to sweat in closed, heavy boots. Actually, I didn't want to invest in another pair since I had around 37 heels waiting for me in Malta. But then one fine day, I passed this shop and there they were, looking at me and begging to be taken with me. Once slipped on my feet, there was no turning back and I don't regret it a second. My little bronzies carried me everywhere and have seen everything: the streets of Ku' Damm, Oranienburger Strasse (one of my favourite night spots for going out), Berliner night clubs, the copplestone streets of Wiesbaden (where I got constantly stuck with my heels, but thank goodness they didn't break!), and of course, they survived the ultimate test: they withstood the cracky "streets" of Malta and Gozo (anyone female who's been here knows what I'm talking about). And although I have hundreds of others, I have to admit that these became my favorite. The most incredible is that I, as a former "I can never decide which shoe matches to what outfit", became a lover of one pair for everything!!! And now, don't you say women are complicated!

Maltese Summer Nights

If there is one thing I love to do on a beautiful Maltese summers' night, then it is to stroll by the sea, take time to contemplate and notice all the small things in life. I love watching children playing on the streets or swimming in the sea, taking their last dive before being called to dinner by nanna (Grandma).
In summer, it seems as if the Maltese live in the open. When you walk down Xemxija Bay you'll notice families and friends sitting together just outside their home while the sun is slowly setting. A lot just bring some chairs from inside, sit by the promenade and chat the night away. Somehow this always reminds me of a better world and I might be a bit nostalgic but I guess, these were the things that made me fall in love with the island in the first place and I'm glad that after all these years I'm still able to notice and appreciate it.

One day, my sister, Mark, and I came home from a day trip on the sea and as we stirred our boat inside the little bay, there were children still playing in the water. It was already getting dark and here they were jumping between the boats, cat fighting with each other and having a ball of a time while their families were preparing for the nights barbeque. From my sisters watchfull eyes I could read her thoughts because they were a reflection of mine. For a moment we were only observing, sipping in the atmosphere and admiring this way of life. In front of us was a generation of carefree and fearless children that seemed to be one with the element. It was magical and a world apart from our "big city life" upbringing. I couldn't stop wondering, if only our minds were a bit more freed of all those inhibitions and were just a little like those of the Maltese children... a bit more fearless and carefree in taking that days' last dive.

Celebrating Wine

One thing you have to know about MALTA is that the people here love entertainment and they love food & wine (although I really don't know in what order). In all these years that I have been coming to my beloved island, I learned to appreciate those social events that include exactly these three elements. I can assure you though, I was never a very avid drinker. OK, I admit in my teen years I was a bit on the wild side and I remember my first time booze but that is actually quite nothing compared to how alcoholic beverages are consumed over here. You have to understand it as a part of a Mediterranean Iifestyle and the Maltese way of socialising. In fact, I don't know any good Maltese household that doesn't have a nice and shiny wooden cabinet to store alcoholic delicacies in. As a guest, you will certainly be offered a liquor, rum, schanps, or whatever your heart/ taste buds desire. I remember that I was always wondering why they were continously offering me drinks although I was always reluctant to accept the offer. Looking back, it kind of dawned on me that this is their way of showing hospitality. Was I rude for refusing? No, but I guess they thought I was a bit strange ;-)
Fast forward 8 years and as stated above, I have come to love Malta's yearly festivals. During summer and until fall, Malta will celebrate its annual Farsons Bear Festival, the Delicata Wine Festival, the Marsovin Wine Festival, the October Fest (yeps, they even incorporated some Bavarian tradition... as long as it has to do with partying, it's ok) and I could go on and on. Normally, these events are hosted on the weekend at special landmarks, come with live entertainment by Malta's leading singers and have loads of drinks and food stalls. My favorite one of course is the Delicata Wine festival at the Upper Barraka Gardens at Valletta. The setting is amazing, a small garden/park on top of the bastions overlooking the harbor and The Three Cities. Good music, as much wine "tasting" as you like and the chance to observe the Who is Who of Malta, doesn't that sound interesting?! Well, I was very sorry that this year I have actually missed all those events... uuuhhh I hear you crying. Well, yeah I was still caught up in Berlin with things to do. But late August, as soon I made it to Malta I read about a small hosting of MonteKristo wine tasting at the five star Dragonara Resort. So, off we went to experience something new and as it turned out it was qite an enjoyable evening. The wine didn't stand up to Delicata's or Marsovin's and they weren't any fancy shows. But the event was held in a quiet olive garden, with fountains, lots of cushions on the floor to rest on and music to just chill out. I have to say, I utterly enjoyed the atmosphere.



The best part was still to come when we decided to try the set menu, consisting of 2 fresh oysters, fresh salmon bruscetta, and a glass of champagne. Ok, salmon and champagne are fine by me but fresh... alive oysters??? That scared me a litlle but how I am, I always like to try everything at least once in life. At the food stand while observing the preparation of the oysters I got a bit nervous.





I glanced over to the gentleman next to me who swallowed 2 of them with one quick and very determined swoop. My stomach turned and twisted in apprehension, and my only thought was "I hope tomorrow, I'm still alive". I guess, the service personel were reading my mind and assured me that these oysters are very fresh (and still alive!!!) and they smell (like drainage) if they are bad (and like sea water when they are fresh). Then it was my turn, I put the shell to my lips...



...and as soon as IT had slipped into my mouth, The Artist suddenly tells me "chew them!". With all that excitement and confusion, I did actually chew them. Shame on me! But at this time I was only thinking "Oh my God, I'm killing IT!". In hindsight, I should have known to just leave the oyster on my toungue, enjoying its flavor (thanks Lino for the tip!) and then swallowing it in one piece. And how about the taste? ..you might wonder... Well, it was actually a huge chunk of wobbly mass, with a sea water flavor combined with garlic and herb taste... and by the way, I survived it! After that I needed to relax on those comfy pillows and I think I was slowely getting carried away with the nights events.